Monday, 29 July 2013

Bolt Action - T-34/85 box

This is the second article in the ´what you get in the box´ series and its time for a tank this time, the Soviet Union T-34/85.

[Picture belongs to Warlord Games]

You get 2 sprues in the box and a decal sheet.

Not that much to say about this kit, you get what you need to build this tank, nothing more nothing less. You have the option to choose between Medium machine gun  or a Flamethrower whcih you have option for in the army book, which is good.
Over all its a nice kit, the details are good in my opinion and looks really easy to assemble when you look at the instructions.
Regarding the decals there is one thing I really like and that is that you have small letters translating the Russian texts that comes on the decal sheet.

Saturday, 27 July 2013

Bolt Action - Soviet Infantry plastic box set

To continue  my previous Bolt Action post I will follow up with a ´what you get in the box´ series and as the title says I will begin with the Soviet Infantry plastic box set.

[Picture belongs to Walord Games]

In this box you get 40 plastic infantry miniatures in the 28mm scale, bases and a selection of different weapons and accessories.

You will get 5 of these sprues in the box.

You will get 3 of these sprue's in the box.

And you get these sprues with bases, all in all 35x round 25 mm bases

The miniatures are great and you get allot of them for a good price (if you compare to other miniature companies). The level of detail on them are good, the variety of weapons allow you to kit out different kind of squads which is good. The separate arms allows you to pose your models enough so they don't look all the same.
The one thing i really like is the that you get 13 heads per sprue which you can use on other miniatures that have the optional head system.

The only thing that bug me with this kit is that are only bases for the standing miniatures, the ones that are in prone position do not get bases, so you have to buy them extra or make them yourself.

Friday, 19 July 2013

Bolt Action - Warlord Games

Yesterday  I had the opportunity to try Warlord Games Bolt Action miniature game, it was easy to learn, it's allot like Warhammer 40K with less special rules, so I thought that I should writes about my first experience.
My game was between Germans and the Soviet union, I got wiped of the table, but what fun and interesting game it was.

 The biggest different about Bolt Action, the really big reason I liked it, was that when it comes to turns you use order dices to activate units.
You get one order dice per unit, you put yours and your opponents dices in a bag/cup and draw the dices from the bag/cup to see whose turn it is to activate one unit. I quickly realised that my game plan didn't go as planed and I had to rethink my tactics the whole game. The same thing goes for setting up your units, you draw order dices randomly to see who's turn it is to set up a unit, so there are advantages and disadvantages to having few units and large number of units.

Other things I learned when playing it for the first time was;
  • that close combat is DEADLY
  • the order ambush is DEADLY
  • your units will die quickly when facing machine guns of any kind
So the conclusion is that your units die fast, there is no saves only wounding modifiers such as covers and troop experience. If you play Warhammer 40K or similar system you will pick up the rules pretty quickly.
If you want to have as realistic WWII miniature game you should probably checkout some other system, Bolt Action is historical with its content such as army list, miniatures and so on. The rules are not as realistic as other game systems, but I think it would make this game less fun to play, I like the rules, the level of the rules are really good, it allows for fast, fun and challenging game play.

The rule book and army books for the games is full colour and Osprey is involved in these books which is a good thing for me, I like Ospreys books. There are more the Soviet, German, US and British armies to play, so check out Warlord games website for more information (

It's a fun game, the random order dices makes it unpredictable which I find refreshingly fun, if you get the chance to play it, take it it really worth your time.

Wednesday, 17 July 2013

Tall rock formation terrain

With  the new large models for 40K I wanted to add some larger terrain pieces, or should I say taller to block line of sight.  One most easy terrain pieces to make is to make a hill or a rock formation, so I started to search for tall rock formation and I really like the ones you could find  around Li river in china. They are tall and not that wide so it makes a good good inspiration for my terrain.


I did two pieces of rock formation terrain, One with a "hill" base and one that has a narrow base, plus a small piece that I made of the left overs from the taller ones.

  • Styrofoam (the really cheap one you get whet buying electronics)
  • PVA glue
  • Wall filler
  • Fine sandpaper
  • Pen
  • Serrated knife
  • Cardboard
  • Paints (I used; Black, white, Maroon and Burnt umber)
  • Static grass
  • Small gravel 
  • Matt varnish spray
I started to glue together pieces of styrofoam to get the height and  rough shape of the rock formation, after the glue has dried I cut out the shape of the rock formation (you could draw  lines to follow when cutting out the shape),  the shape can look really flat at this point. To remove the flatness I used fine sandpaper to smooth edges and to give the rock formation a more round shape. This is really messy when using cheap styrofoam, you will have small styrofoam beads all over the place. You could use insulation styrofoam that isn't made up by small beads, its easier to work with and don't leave your work area looking like a snow landscape.

After that is done I put the styrofoam on the card board to cut out the shape for the base, draw, cut and glue the styrofoam to the cardboard. My bases are I little larger then the rock formation, this is for protecting the edges of the terrain from chipping.

Now use the wall filler, I put it on the styrofoam with my fingers for better control of the pattern/shape it will get when dried.
The wall fillers job is to give  a rough surface, this will help with the painting and the general look of the terrain. If you paint over the styrofoam without anything hiding it you will see the styrofoam beads and it wont look as good.
Let the filler at least dry over night, when its dry I run my hands over the surface to remove the "high edges", otherwise these edges will fall off when handling the terrain and you will have to repair it, which is never that fun.

Now put some glue where you think small rocks should have landed when falling off the rock formation and then put the small gravel on the glue and let it dry.

Painting, you can put on a indoor wall paint to cover the terrain so the filler don't absorb your acrylic paint. I didn't do it this time because my acrylic paints are a really cheap brand I bought  in large bottles, but if you use model paints (I don't recommend this) I would use the wall colour before painting the terrain with the model colour, I usually use a white colour for this.

Rock painting; I tried different shades of grey, I added some brown to get a little warmer grey then when only using black and white. You have to decide if you want dark or light grey rocks or perhaps a more beige coloured rocks, I went with light grey rocks in the end.
When painting put on the darkest shade of first all over the terrain, then dry brush several layers, I went with one base coat and three dry brushing layers and the last layer was a light dry brushing layer of pure white.
I painted the areas where I wanted  put static grass maroon, this is for when static grass falls of because wearing it will look more like dirt below the grass.

When applying static grass (use a newspaper so you can get the excess static grass back in the container, don't waste it) put the glue on the area first, you can delude the glue with water so it wont dry  as fast and then sprinkle generously over the glue and pat it a little before you turn it over and pat it again to remove the excess static grass.
After the glue as dried I apply  allot of matt varnish all over the rock formation to seal the static grass, there is other ways to do it, such as using a glue/water combination and spraying the terrain with it, then your done.

Here's the result;

Monday, 15 July 2013

Dreadball - WiP Myrmidonnas

I have the Void sirens team for Mantic Games Dread ball, I call my team Oceanus City Myrmidonnas. I have a test figure done, the rest is on the way.
I'm waiting for a head to finishing up the team, I had the bad luck to get a Judwan head instead of the Void Sirens head in the box, Mantic games did send a new head that got ripped out of the envelope during shipping, so the great guys over at Mantic will send a new head.

Base: White
Top part; Hawk Turquoise
Mid part; Sybarite Green 2:1 Hawk Turquoise
Lower part;  Sybarite Green
Wash; Asurmen Blue
Black details: Abbadon Black
Orange details: Jokaero Orange / Fire dragon Bright

After painting the body and washing it I went over with with the same colours that I use under the wash, so the Turquoise  areas are painted again with Hawk Turquoise and so on. Highlights are to be added, I will just add some white to the colours for the coming highlights
Black details is highlighted with Thunderhawk Blue.
The Orange shoulder details is washed several layers with Army painter Strong Tone quickshade to build up the gemlike shoulders and finishing of with a white dot.

Here's the WiP;

Test figure

Team WiP