Ad

Monday, 13 October 2014

Infinity - Operation Icestorm

Woho! I received my Operation Icestorm box and I took a quick look at the content, its really good. The miniatures are awesome, the paper terrain looks good, so I really got value for my money. I never played Infinity before nor really seen it played other then on videos, most people in my area play 40k, Warhammer Fantasy or Bolt Action, so I thought I might try to  get some demo games done with people at my local store.
The reason I bought this starter box is because I love the miniatures Corvus Belli makes and if I like the game I will try to push the game in my area and hope that more people pick it up.



Models
Well you get 14 miniatures in the box, one extra if you pre-ordered it. There is seven PanOcieania miniatures and seven Nomads miniatures in the box, all looks really good, I love the style Infinity miniatures have, it really breaks off from the 28mm heroic scale models Im used too.


PanOceania; 

"PanOceania is the Nº1. Great Power of the Human Sphere. It owns the greatest number of planets, has the richest economy and possesses the most advanced technology. Pragmatic and generous, PanOceania is a melting-pot of cultures, heir to the best democratic and welfare traditions of the West. Proud of itself and somewhat domineering it can claim to have the most technically sophisticated society and army in the Sphere and likes to brag about it."

Nomads; 

"The Nomads consist of three enormous ships whose inhabitants, discontented with a society controlled by huge macroeconomic blocks and by A.I., have separated themselves from it and roam through space, trading from system to system. Tunguska is dedicated to the traffic and storage of information. Corregidor offers skilled labour at a good price, while Bakunin trades in all that is exotic and illegal in whatever area, from fashion to nano-engineering"

When I read about these two factions I probably will end up collecting the Nomads, on the other hand you don't need that many miniatures and it isn't that expensive if you look at other games. As an insight to my own behaviour  I know that I will collect more factions if I really like Infinity.

Terrain
The paper terrain that you get in Operation Icestorm is made out of paper, its easy to assemble and as a tip I have seen on other sites on the internet you can use the boxes that the miniatures comes in to make the houses more stable, just put the pa per houses over the box.
You also get containers in the box, as i said previous, they are easy to assemble and if you like more terrain like this there are papercaft sites you can visit and download and print them out on cardboard paper, they are usually free for download.
The play map so to say, is really good looking and fits well with the houses and containers, I cant really complain about it. You might want to laminate it if you want it to last longer, I don't know I will do it, because I have my eye on a gaming mat from  Micro art studio.



As conclusion on the terrain that follows along with this box I have to say its really good and smart move by Corvus Belli to put in the starter box. It will make the games you play a bit better because of it, I'm a firm believer that terrain is an essential part in the wargaming hobby and the better (looks, feel, and themed) terrain you use when playing the better your gaming experience will be.

Rules
I only have had quick look at the starter rules, but it comes in one book, one half is in Spanish and the other one is in English. The structure of it is a brief introduction to the Infinity universe, then a short story that gives you the background for the missions that follows along with the rules.
They way they have structured the book is that you play the different missions and for each mission they add more rules, this makes it easier to follow along  and as this is a starter box it will help someone as me to learn the rules as I play the game. Good job Corvus Belli.
The full set of rules is available on the Infinity website, I do think its still 2nd edition rules and the starter rules in this box is 3rd edition, I might be wrong there.


Accessories
You get dices and markers etc., so you can play right out of the box, that's always a good thing. I would liked if the markers were made of a bit thicker cardboard and that's the only thing that I can complain about, regarding the markers.




Anyway, I'm pleased with the content of this box, it's worth the money I spent on it and now I just have to assemble, paint and play. 

Sunday, 5 October 2014

Review: Infinity Operation Icestorm Bases by Giraldez

I have pre ordered the Infinity starter box Operation Icestorm and  I was looking around for ideas for the bases, I found Custom Meeple and they make the "basing material" that is used in the photos for the starter set.

They look good so I ordered the Infinity Operation Icestorm Bases by Giraldez, which includes
14 pieces , seven for each faction and I also ordered more Nomad bases, five regular bases and a 55mm base, with both of these products you can choose between plasticard (0,8mm) and high density cardboard (0,32mm), I went with the plasticard version.




The plasticard has a bit of rough edges but after you smooth them out it will fit the base nicley, the small bits in holes on the nomad bases are removed easly, just poke them out. I smoothed the edges with the backside of my hobby knife and it didn't take long at all to get a smooth result, just take it easy and don't use the edge of your knife, you might ruin the shape.




When it comes to glueing the plasticard to the bases you could use PVA glue, but watered down so it wont go in  to the holes (regarding the Nomad bases) and cover them up, personally I used plastic glue and it worked fine.



My opinion of this product is that its great, the thickness of them is the best thing with them. The quality of them are really nice, it isn't the most advanced or most decorated bases you can get but the will make your bases look good and fits nicely in with the sleek futuristic style of Infinity.

I have used resin bases for my Eldar, I have used Imperialis Sector basing for my Dark Eldar and both these types of bases I have used has its problem. The full resin bases looks great but have some problems with placing a model on them, the Imperialis Sector basing set have the problem with them that they don't fit the bases that good, they are a bit smaller then base top so you will get a  small area that the basing wont cower. That might not be a big issue but it annoys me.

These two issues have described above I didn't have them with the Infinity bases (or rather basing material), so that's a plus. My verdict of this product is that I'm really pleased with it and I will use them on all future Infinity miniatures.

To visit them, www.customeeple.com

Sunday, 27 July 2014

Imperial Knight Porphyo WIP 2

I have painted the leg armour plates and the base, my goal will not be reached this week. But  have ordered some transfers that will help me finish of this model, first is the Imperial Knight transfers sheet from Games Workshop and Emperors Children transfer sheet from Forgeworld. I will use the skull and hoplite transfers as the personal heraldry and the  laurel wreath from the Emperor Childrens sheet as the house symbol.

The Knight

Well most paint is on the model now, no black primer showing, but there is a lot more to do on the carapace and the arms and weapons, the rest is good as done.I  also  need to highlight the gold a bit more, I probably will go with the GW way and add silver on the most prominent areas.
The eagle transfers on the legs were a bit fiddly for me to apply due to the parts that is around the form of the arrow, but now they are there at least.




The Base

The base is painted the same way as my Minotaur's force and while I was painting it I got the idea to add some Mordheim turf to it. My Minotaur's bases are only sand and rocks so I probably add some Mordheim turf on them before I us them next time.


Monday, 21 July 2014

Imperial Knight Porphyo WIP 1

I bought this Imperial Knight when it was released and I haven't started painting it until now, so I have set a goal to finish painting my Imperial Knight before my vacation is done and I will probably not make it...

I had an idea that I should build a cockpit on this one, I haven't done it yet so I wont glue on the carapace armour yet and the general style is to use transfers that have some Greek/Byzantine touch to it on the Knight to make it fit my Minotaur army a bit more. 
I had to remove paint from half of the panels due to bush strokes, this was because I didn't ad in that is so freaking hot now so the paint was drying so fast that I got brush strokes, now I still have brush strokes still on some parts but they are minor so I will let them be and I don't want repaint any more parts.

The transfers on the knee pad and the name are from the Minotaur chapters transfer sheet from Forgeworld, I will buy the extra transfer sheet from GW to get a personal heraldic symbol for the knight (the skull with hoplite helmet shape on the lower half) and for the House symbol I'm looking over at Forgeworld to find something that will fit.

But this is how far I have come with one week to go...

Wednesday, 2 July 2014

Bolt Action Soviet Infantry painting guide - WIP 5

It's time for the base and touch ups, I generally mess up the feet's on the minis while I do the bases, my dry brushing isn't that precise. I  also touch up the rest of my misses on the miniatures, I take a good look on each one of the miniatures so I can spot my sloppiness, truth be told I only do something about if I can see it from a tabletop angle of view.

The earth is simple and straight forward to do, simply pick a shade of brown as base and the simply add  an beige tone and dry brush it. When it come to the stones, I don't like to go from black/grey and then add white to highlight them, this is for the same reason why I don't add white to any highlights on these miniatures, I want the highlights to be soft.
If you want more prominent highlights, use white, but my preference is, specially with historical miniatures, is to use beige for a soft tone. Stones has a brown tone to them, not just grey tones and I have used the soft tone approach to the miniatures it fits better.



Earth
1. Grave Yard Earth, base
2. Grave Yard Earth 1:1 Ushabti Bone, Dry brush
3. Ushabti Bone, Light Dry brush

Stone
1. Black Grey 70.862, base
2. Black Grey 70.862 1:1 Ushabti Bone, a really thin coat all over the stones.
3. Ushabti Bone, Light Dry brush



Basing
For the basing I went for a grass field in the summer time, to add some reality to the grass I used a static grass, grass tufts and flower tufts for the bases.
I use different types of grass to get some more realistic look to it, my aim is to have the bases look like a grass field and grass fields do have different types of grass and length on the grass.
Due to my good lamp dying on me I had to use a more yellow light so the colours on the pictures are a bit off, I tried to correct them much as possible, but then again these pictures are about the grass on the bases not on the painting so it will do.

Material
Army painter Jungle Tuft
Army Painter Meadow Flowers
Army Painter Winter Tuft
Citadel Static Grass
Citadel Static Glade Grass




Wednesday, 18 June 2014

Bolt Action Soviet Infantry painting guide - WIP 4

So this step is most for adding some highlights to the miniatures. When I highlight I use base paint 1:1 Off white (such as beige), I also thin the paint down more then on the other stages so highlights blend in more nicely with the previous paint layer
The areas I highlight are the raised areas and knees and elbows,  I try to avoid to extreme highlights on these models to keep them in a sober tone and that's the reason why  I don't highlight all areas.
The only thing hat is left to do on these models are touch ups and the bases, this will be covered in the last WIP.


Layer 2 Highlights
Primer - Army Painter Desert Yellow 1:1 Ushabti Bone
Uniform -Khaki Grey 70.880 1:1 Ushabti Bone
Boots - Black Grey 70.862 1:1 Ushabti Bone
Helmet & Grenades  - Caliban Green 1:1 Ushabti Bone

Bedrolls - Flat Earth 70.983 1:1 Ushabti Bone
Leather - Scorched Brown 1:1 Ushabti Bone
Straps & Cantines - Karak Stone 1:1 Ushabti Bone
Skin - Elf Flesh 1:1 White




WIP 4 

Sunday, 8 June 2014

Bolt Action Soviet Infantry painting guide - WIP 3

This step is to go over the whole miniatures with out base paint and leaving the recesses alone. You need to be more careful when you painting this step so we don't loose the shadow effect from the washes. Some of the cloth areas have small ridges and crevasses, here I just paint it all over with the base paint, because I will will highlight those ridges in the next step.
The only area I don't reapply the base paint is on the gun barrels I just leave  them as they are and the rifle wood was done in step 2 so the only area on the weapons that will be painted are the bayonets.

If yo want the first  two step go here for step one and here for step two.

Base Paint
Red parts - Mechrite Red

Layer 1

Uniform - Khaki Grey 70.880
Boots - Black Grey 70.862
Helmet & Grenades  - Caliban Green 1:1 Death World Forest (For those who don't want to mix paint, use Loren Forest)
Rifle Wood - Deathclaw Brown
Boots - Black Grey 70.862
Bedrolls - Flat Earth 70.983
Leather - Scorched Brown
Straps & Cantines - Karak Stone
Skin - Elf Flesh
Bayonets & Other metal details - Leadbelcher
Medals & Officer belt buckle -  Brass 70.801
Red parts - Evil Sunz Scarlet

Wash
Helmet & Officer belt buckle  - Army painter Strong tone

WIP 3

Thursday, 29 May 2014

Bolt Action Soviet Infantry painting guide - WIP 2

Washes, well a minor highlight on the rifles, other then that I wash the whole models before going on to the next step. If you want the first step go here.

This step has only one highlight which is the wood on the rifles, the reason is that after I wash the rifle I'm done with it and I want the highlight to have the same shade of red-brown as the rest of the wood.
The rest of this step is washes and more washes, this is for creating the shades we want on the miniatures. After this step you could say that your done and use them on the table, but I want two more step on them, one for re-adding the base paint and one for a highlight before I'm done with them.

Highlights
Rifle Wood - Deathclaw Brown 1:1 Karak Stone

Washes
Uniform - Army Painter Strong Tone
Boots - Nuln Oil
Helmet & Grenades  - Army Painter Strong Tone
Rifle Wood - Baal Red (Carroburg Crimson)
Rifle Pipe & Metal - Nuln Oil
Bedrolls - Army Painter Strong Tone
Leather - Army Painter Strong Tone
Straps & Cantines - Army Painter Strong Tone
Skin - Reikland Fleshtone

WIP 2 - Washes

Saturday, 24 May 2014

Bolt Action Soviet Infantry painting guide - WIP 1

I'm painting up some of my Soviet army and I searched the internet for some historical reference and such. What I found was that the colours of the uniforms and vehicles had variation too them depending on which factory who made them
This allow some freedom while painting, I'm not over concerned  by painting them historical correct, so long they are painted somewhere close to it, so no bright coloured red soldiers here.

First step after priming the models I paint all the base colours, I'm not over concerned at this point on being neat. It doesn't matter if I have some minor spots with the wrong colour, because I'm going to to go over the whole figure with washes then the base paint again, so those minor misses wont mater now.

So lets go through my base painting of my Soviet Infantry. For my version of the Soviet Vehicles go here, it's a T-34/85 tank but this is how I will painting all my Soviet Vehicles.

Base Paints
Primer - Army Painter Desert Yellow
Uniform -Khaki Grey 70.880
Boots - Black Grey 70.862
Helmet & Grenades  - Caliban Green
Rifle Wood - Deathclaw Brown
Rifle Pipe & Metal - Black Grey 70.862
Bedrolls - Flat Earth 70.983
Leather - Scorched Brown
Straps & Cantines - Karak Stone
Skin - Elf Flesh

WIP 1 - Base Painting


Thursday, 22 May 2014

Bolt Action Terrain - Defensive Terrain Finished

So the Defensive terrain project is finished, it were all experimental with the painting I mixed colours so much that I cant say really what I did with it, but the result is sufficient enough to put on the table.
 I Think I want the earth colour to be a bit more sand coloured, not that I find this a horrid colour but I would like it lighter. hats a thought on the next try on a defensive position on the eastern front.
As I said in the earlier post I can fit a 60mm base in it or a T-34/85 tank (almost the whole thing..its a bit long).

Here some pictures:






More pictures fore some scale:




Monday, 19 May 2014

Bolt Action Terrain - Defensive Terrain WIP 1

Warlord Games do provide really nice terrain for Bolt Action, but as always I want to make something my self for the games I play.
So I tried to make a defensive position for a mortar team or anything on a 60 mm base, but then I thought that I should make it wider so I can have three 25mm bases in there and make it so a group of 10 can be in the terrain. This was all fine until I had assembled it all and I realised that I had forgotten to add extra width for the interior..so I cant have three  25mm bases but I can have a 60 mm base in there or a T-34/85 tank.

I try to use as inexpensive materials as I can for my terrain and I look fore things around the house for the material, this is what I used;

  1. Low density styrofoam
  2. PVA glue
  3. Citadel Sand
  4. Small stones from playground
  5. Popsicle sticks
  6. Wooden BBQ sticks
  7. Cardboard



I will bee adding paint and static grass to it and finishing it up in the next update.

Thursday, 15 May 2014

Bolt Action - Coming releases, next year



I sent an e-mail to Warlord Games asking if they are thinking of releasing some thing for the Chinese theatre of war during WWII, this is the answer;


"We will be doing some theatre books, 5 of them next year which will cover the whole of ww2.One of them is the Pacific and we  will be including the mighty and terrible battles of the China/Japan clashes.. epic as they were...I think they will be very interesting..



thanks for the note best wishes john stallard Warlord Games owner."

This sounds really good, not only will they release what I wanted but there is more coming next year. As the answer state the coming releases will cover the whole of WWII, I cant say I'm disappointed in that at all, so good job Warlord Games, I will be waiting for these releases with great anticipation.

Saturday, 10 May 2014

Bolt Action T-34/85 painted

Well I finally got the transfers on the tank and there for I'm officially done with it. I started out with an idea that I wanted the tank darker then what I finally went with, the reason is that I after painting it in dark green I started Highlighting it and the result of that wasn't really what I wanted. So I painted over the highlights again and then I went with a much brighter green and I worked on putting shadows on it rather the highlights. I'm pretty pleased with the result and the what's missing is some dirt weathering on the tracks, but I don't have any pigments for it so this will do.


Colours
Imanly use Citadel paints, but now and then I find the colours or shades from Army painter and  Vallejo that I really like to use.

Black primer, Caliban Green, Death World Forest,  Tin Bitz, Bolt Gun Metal, Nuln Oil,  Enchanted Blue, Skull White, Typhus Corrosion, Ryza Rust, Strong Tone (shade), Black Grey (70.862), Decal Medium.

Build
I assembled the whole model except for the tracks which I painted separately before assembling them, this also makes it easier to paint the track wheels.

Prime
Primed the hole model black

Hull
1. Caliban Green
2. Strung Tone wash
3. Dry brush Death World Forest
4. Typhus Corosion
5. Ryza Rust
6. Death World Forest

Tracks
1. Dry brushed Grey Black
2. Strong tone black
3. Typhus Corrosion
4. Ryza Rust
5. Strong Tone

Machine Gun& Ventilation exhausts
1. Grey Black
2. Nuln Oil
3. Lightly dry brush Death World Forest (Ventilation Exhaust only)

Exhausts & Steel wires
1. Tin Bitz
2. Bolt Gun Metal
3. Lightly apply Typhus Corrosion


Searchlight
1. Enchanted Blue
2. Strong Tone (applied on on the to be dark side instead of a darker blue)
3. Enchanted blue (applied watered down on the to be lighter half)
4. Enchanted Blue 1:1 Skull White (apply a thin line on the upper left side)

Transfers
1. Decal Medium
2. Place the transfers (let them dry before proceeding on to the next step)
3. Decal Medium (let it dry before proceeding on to the next step)
5. Stipple lightly Death world forest  over the decals (this make them a bit more toned down and not so bright)







Thursday, 10 April 2014

Howling Banshees& Warpspiders are back on GW site

Well, my hopes for new plastic mini's were crushed yet again. I went to the new Games Workshop site and found both of the "missing" miniatures.
I had really hoped for plastic kits for the Eldar aspect warriors but I will probably have to endure an force without aspect warriors (except for Dire Avengers) for a long time, sadly.

Saturday, 5 April 2014

Howling Banshee's & Warpspiders are gone from GW website

I was looking around on GW's website and I noticed that the Howling Banshee's & Warpspiders are gone. One might hope for a plastic version of them are on the way or are they just repackaged?

I have avoided the aspects warriors that are in finecast because I really dislike the material, so my Eldar force are plastic and metal miniatures. Now Howling Banshee's & Warpspiders are not my favourite units among the aspects warriors, but if they are remade I will buy a box of them, I can only hope that all of the aspects warriors are remade into plastic.

Wednesday, 19 March 2014

Blogs & Videos regarding Imperial Knight update 4



Update 4
How to paint a Imperial Knight by Awaken Realms
Painted Imperial Knight by ThirdEyeNuke Studio
Magnetization of Imperial Knights by Blue table Painting
Imperial Knight painting guide by Awaken Realms
How to paint House Raven by  Warchef Ändy

Update 3
Building and Magnetizing an Imperial Knight by  ThePaintingClinic
Imperial Knight WIP 4 painting by





Update 2
Imperial Knight WIP 2 painting by

Imperial Knight WIP painting over at Tale of Painters
Assembling the Imperial Knight by Murphy80
Unboxing & Assembling the Imperial Knight part 1 over at Pins of War
Unboxing & Assembling the Imperial Knight part 2 over at Pins of War
Painted Imperial Knight over at Agyar Studio 
Painted Imperial Knight (House Taranis) by Lil' Legend Studio Commission Painting Service
Review & Painting Tutorial for Imperial Knight by Colour of the Gods
Battle report with a Knight done by  Team0Comp


Review and  assembly tips by Rob Baer at Spikey Bits
Tactics talk by Rob Bayer at Spikey Bits
Imperial Knight applying transfers by Games Workshop


Sunday, 9 March 2014

Blogs & Videos regarding Imperial Knight update 3

Update 3 in the Imperial Knight series, the more blog posts or videos I find  the more I will update this collection of links. This collection of links to blogs and videos are meant to help you if you wants idea how to put it together, conversion, magnetization, tactics and painting.

Update 3
Building and Magnetizing an Imperial Knight by  ThePaintingClinic
Imperial Knight WIP 4 painting by





Update 2
Imperial Knight WIP 2 painting by

Imperial Knight WIP painting over at Tale of Painters
Assembling the Imperial Knight by Murphy80
Unboxing & Assembling the Imperial Knight part 1 over at Pins of War
Unboxing & Assembling the Imperial Knight part 2 over at Pins of War
Painted Imperial Knight over at Agyar Studio 
Painted Imperial Knight (House Taranis) by Lil' Legend Studio Commission Painting Service
Review & Painting Tutorial for Imperial Knight by Colour of the Gods
Battle report with a Knight done by  Team0Comp


Review and  assembly tips by Rob Baer at Spikey Bits
Tactics talk by Rob Bayer at Spikey Bits
Imperial Knight applying transfers by Games Workshop


Friday, 7 March 2014

My Imperial Knight assembly tips and plans

So I finally got the assembly done, except for the armour plates done due to painting. The kit was easy to put together overall, the only mess I did was with the small handrails on the top armour, I got too much glue and I turned them the wrong way so the result were bas at first, but after some cleaning it looks OK and I hope that after painting it it wont be noticeable.

Tips
  1. Well for assembly dry fit all parts before gluing it in place.
  2. Don't glue on the armour plates, this will make it easier to paint the skeleton of the model.
  3. If you are to paint it with an airbrush don't glue on the handrails before painting the carapace.
  4. Magnetize your canons, things you need to magnetize is the ammo box for the two guns and the barrel for the  Thermal canon, the rapid fire Battle canon fits nicely without a magnet. Regarding the ammo boxes and especially the Rapid fire cannon ammo box needs to be filled up before adding magnets, I used sprue parts to build up a ridge before adding green stuff and then a magnet, this way I don't use all that much green stuff.

Interior
After looking at

















Blogs & Videos regarding Imperial Knight update 2

Update 2 in the Imperial Knight series, the more blog posts or videos I find  the more I will update this collection of links. This collection of links to blogs and videos are meant to help you if you wants idea how to put it together, conversion, magnetization, tactics and painting.


Update 2
Imperial Knight WIP painting by

Imperial Knight WIP painting over at Tale of Painters
Assembling the Imperial Knight by Murphy80
Unboxing & Assembling the Imperial Knight part 1 over at Pins of War
Unboxing & Assembling the Imperial Knight part 2 over at Pins of War
Painted Imperial Knight over at Agyar Studio 
Painted Imperial Knight (House Taranis) by Lil' Legend Studio Commission Painting Service
Review & Painting Tutorial for Imperial Knight by Colour of the Gods
Battle report with a Knight done by  Team0Comp


Review and  assembly tips by Rob Baer at Spikey Bits
Tactics talk by Rob Bayer at Spikey Bits
Imperial Knight applying transfers by Games Workshop


Wednesday, 5 March 2014

Blogs & Videos regarding Imperial Knight update 1

Blogs & Videos regarding Imperial Knight
This is update 1 fro my previous post I made (link) about this topic. All links are listed below from the previous post and I have added new links below them under update 1.

Now there hasn't been that many new posts that I have stumbled upon so far and most are unboxing and reviews of the Imperial Knight kit. Further update will come along as soon as I find more blog posts and videos that are conversions, painting or tactics.I suspect that there will take some time before more posts are coming up on internet.

If you have found or have made a interesting post or video regarding the Imperial Knight, please leave a comment  below.

Imperial Knight assembly by MrWatchingpaintdry

Imperial Knight cockpit by John Stiening at 40k Hobby Blog

Imperial Knight assembly by Games Workshop
Imperial Knight painting the skeleton by Games Workshop
Imperial Knight painting the armour by Games Workshop

If you have found something yourself or maybe you have posted yourself something regarding the Imperial Knight, please comment or send me a message and I will make an update.

/Kash

Update 1
Review and  assembly tips by Rob Baer at Spikey Bits
Tactics talk by Rob Bayer at Spikey Bits
Imperial Knight applying transfers by Games Workshop

Tuesday, 4 March 2014

Blogs & Videos regarding Imperial Knight

Blogs & Videos regarding Imperial Knight
I have checked briefly for videos and blogs regarding assembly and painting the Imperial Knight for ideas and inspiration, so far I have found some that I found useful and they are listed below.


Imperial Knight assembly by MrWatchingpaintdry

Imperial Knight cockpit by John Stiening at 40k Hobby Blog

Imperial Knight assembly by Games Workshop
Imperial Knight painting the skeleton by Games Workshop
Imperial Knight painting the armour by Games Workshop

If you have found something yourself or maybe you have posted yourself something regarding the Imperial Knight, please comment or send me a message and I will make an update.

/Kash

Tuesday, 25 February 2014

Imperial Guard idea

I had a idea that I should get a Tallarn force, but this idea died when I couldn't get over how the metal miniatures look. So I dropped the plans for a IG force, but an idea have come up on me that I could do a Turkish/Ottoman World War 1 (WW1) inspired IG force. The first thought of this came to me when the rumours about a  plastic Steel Legions started to fly around, I could use these miniatures  as a base for a Turkish/Ottoman WW1 inspired force. Now its only a rumour that the Steel Legion will come as a plastic kit so it can shatter this idea completely for me.
This force will take me along time to build up I believe, the reason for that is I want it to be as good as possible and the best assembled and painted force I ever built.

Rumours aside, the idea is that the uniform should be world war looking, they should have a fez, maybe a WW1 looking backpack and moustache/beard. So I sceth up my idea on paper to have something to continue develope the idea for a Turkish/Ottoman IG force.
The uniform jacket shall be dark green, pants khaki and boots/gloves will be either black or dark brown. The Fez I think will be red or I might paint it dark green as the jacket, the lasgun barrel shall be black, the casing will be painted in a re brown colour to look as it is made of wood.



Now when the Imperial Knights will hit the shelves and I have pre-ordered one I plan to paint it to match this maybe future IG force, but more on that in coming Imperial Knight posts.

Sunday, 23 February 2014

Minotaurs Terminators Painting Revisit

I was never totally happy with the weathering on my Minotaurs, so I have got my self some
Nihilakh Oxide to use on them. Other then the weathering I had a go at script work, highlights and details that previous where painted bronze.










For the first go at these Terminators, go here

Saturday, 15 February 2014

Imperial Knights

Finally Imperial Knights and I love the leaked images on them.  I'm not posting the leaked images on them but you can find them on rumour sites.

I was planing on expanding my existing armies and now I know what I am expanding with, so it looks like at least 1 Imperial Knight and a Wraith Knight are on my shopping list.

Thursday, 13 February 2014

Ork Warboss

After being primed for at least 2 years this poor Warboss has finally got some paint on him. I chose Evil Sunz clan for the colour scheme and first time I did checker pattern on a mini.

I tried out the Typhus Corrosion, Ryza Rust and Nihilakh Oxide for the first time and I like them, they easy to use. One thing I did have a problem with is that I did get the metal parts so gritty and rusted that it didn't fitted in with the rest of the model, it looked liked I had painted the Warboss i two separate styles cartoonish and gritty. I did tone down the gritty pat a bit and it started to look ok again.





Monday, 3 February 2014

2nd Eldar Warlock

This is my second Warlock for my 1000p army. I took more time painting with this one then my first Warlock and the result is allot better. I went easier with the shading and highlighted more then my last Warlock.

I have always found that I don't I have succeeded with painting black and my mistake is that I have used black as a mid tone colour. So I tried a new way after looking around for ways to paint black, so I used a dark grey as base and highlighted it 2 times with lighter grey before I washed the areas with a black wash. The result was good and I will continue painting black this way, I will experiment with the highlight and going even brighter then I did this time on my next model.

Regarding the orange I did get in cleaner this time but its not where I want it, I need to do even thinner and more layers of orange to get where I want it I think and the second thing is the shade, I need to  apply it lighter then I did this time.

Orange
Base - Jokaero Orange
Wash - Reikland Fleshade
Layer - Troll Slayer Orange (you might have to apply several layers)
Highlight 1- Troll Slayer Orange 1:1 Fire Dragon Bright
Highlight 2 - Fire Dragon Bright
Highlight 3 - Fire Dragon Bright 1:1 Pallid Wych Flesh

Green
Base - Incubi Darkness
Layer 1 - Kabalite Green
Layer 2/ Highlight - Sybarite Green

Black
Base - Vallejo Black Grey
Highlight 1 - Mechanicus Standard Grey
Highlight 2 - Fortress Grey
Wash - Badab Black



Sunday, 26 January 2014

Eldar Guardian Defender Squad

Just finished my first Guardian Defender Squad and I learned allot about painting orange while doing it. The way I paint my Eldar is that when I wash these mini I need to be allot more careful so the wash don't pool up anywhere, I had to re-apply base and layer colours on several miniatures. The second thin is that Troll Slayer Orange is a thin colour and might need to be applied in several layers to achieve a smooth layer.

I'm not totally satisfied with the result, but they look good enough for me to put on table.

Base coat - White

Orange
Base - Jokaero Orange

Wash - Reikland Fleshade
Layer - Troll Slayer Orange (you might have to apply several layers)
Highlight -Fire Dragon Bright

Green
Base - Incubi Darkness
Layer 1 - Kabalite Green
Layer 2/ Highlight - Sybarite Green

Black
Base - Abaddon Black
Highlight -  Mechanicus Standard Grey

Enjoy!

Monday, 13 January 2014

Bolt Action - Soviet soldier

I got my self a box of 40 Soviet soldiers and the army book for the Soviets and I have painted a test models after looking for some colour choices of the Soviet uniforms.

These are my three steps when painting this model;

1. Base colours
Uniform - Grey Khaki
Wood - Deathclaw Brown
Bedroll etc. - Flat Earth
Gun barell - Adeptus battlegrey

2. Highlights
Added a mix of base colour and white mix of a 1:1 ratio.

3. Wash
Uniform & Bedroll etc. Wash - Quickshade Strong
Gun barrell Wash - Heavy Badab black
Wood - Baal Red





Saturday, 11 January 2014

Painting Tau Skin

GW paints the Tau skin in a grey-blue colour, but I want more colourful blue skin on my Tau, so I have made a short and simple way to paint Tau skin my way. I tried to get a photo for each step of the skin painting, but I didn't  get a good enough quality photos to use sadly, but at least a photo on the finished head.

As usual all paints are to be thinned before applied.

Colours needed;
Skin
White primer
Turquoise
Light Grey
Blue Wash/Ink/Shade


  1. Base & Layers - The head is primed white and layered with two layers of thin turquoise applied
  2. Highlight 1 - Turquoise 1:1 Light Grey is applied to the raised areas
  3. Highlight 2 - Turquoise 1:2 Light Grey is applied to the raised areas, at this point the high lights is a smaller area then the previous highlight.
  4. Highlight 3 - Light Grey is applied to the most raised areas,some parts are more dots the painted lines.
  5. Shade - Apply blue shade all over the skin, work the shade so it don't pool up where it should not be any shade.
  6. Re-Highlight - After the shade have dried you might want to go over the skin to re highlight some parts to make them stand out again if shading flatten them too much.




Monday, 6 January 2014

Eldar Dark Reaper Squad

Long time and no posts and I haven't done much gaming or painting really. I have some half finished test miniatures such as a High Elves  Ellyrian Reaver, a Waveserpent and a Eldar Wraith Lord.
But as a coming game with  a friend is closing in on the set date I wanted to paint up more Eldar and the Guardian Defenders wasn't that fun to paint I decided to get a smaller unit done, the Dark Reapers, they are based on the old Micro Arts studio's jungle bases as all my current Eldar.

Regarding the painting I used almost the same colours I have on my Guardians on the rreapers, the only colour that I added is purple.
I wanted something to be the same orange as my main army colour on them, so I chose to paint the main parts of the gems orange. I also painted some gems purple that goes well with the green on the Reapers.
The green missile launchers are the same green as i have on my guardians gems and shuriken catapults.
Metallics on the Reapers are copper coloured to tie in more with the orange gems.
The bases took almost as long to paint as the miniatures them selves, they are detailed so you can really go nuts on painting, but they are really nice bases.

Enjoy The Dark Reapers of the Jade Skull Shrine