Saturday, 3 October 2015

Review: Werewoolf Miniatures - Lusitanian Jungle Marksman Body (5)

I found these on eBay when I was looking around for potential miniatures for my warband from Estalia, I was thinking of using the Marienburger warband rules for them.
Werewoolf miniatures are a polish company that has a store on eBay, they have more variants of the Lusitinians then ones I bought and more. I really like Werewoolfs miniatures  ogre miniatures, I didn't wanna buy them first time around, I wanted to check out the quality of the cast before I bought more from them.

So on to the miniatures I bought, I went with marksmen without heads and five in the box, they have sets with heads and five or ten miniatures on eBay. I already got heads in my bits box so I had no need for heads. The miniatures are in 28mm heroic scale and they will fit well in with other miniatures in that category.

You will get three standing, two kneeling miniatures in the box and they are made out of resin. The cast is good, no issues  at all, I found no air bubbles and the mold line is minimal on them.
The level of detail is really nice, I especially like that the clothes have worn look to them, even the breastplates have a that look to them, it's perfect for my Mordheim warband.

Mordheim terrain

I have been cleaning out my hobby pile of random stuff and I found a unfinished project that has been collecting dust for two years, plus that I found the sketch for my first idea. Apparently I wanted to do a windmill, but somewhere along the line I decided to make this in to a tower instead.
This tower is build with foamcore/foamboard, cardboard, popcicle sticks and coffee stirrers, all glued with PVA glue.

I dusted it off and added the last corner stones on the tower and the roof;

Painted and finished tower;

I used three paints for the tower and I used white or khaki and black to change the shade of the colour so I cant write what ratio I used in each step.

Roof - Shadow Grey
Walls - Karak stone
Stones - Mechanicus standard grey
Wood - Dryad bark
Moss - Catachan Green, Camo green and Athonian camoshade

Turned out pretty nice, but the real satisfaction is that I finished it. There is four small shields on the sides of the tower which I painted as really old so you can barley make out the sylvanian heraldry on them due to the heavy weatjhering on them.

I have too many unfinished projects that I either need to finish or throw them away, need the space for new projects and games.

Tuesday, 22 September 2015

Dark Elf Corsair

 I painted up the first of a unit with Corsairs and I used the same colour scheme that I used on my old Corsair miniature, you see what colours I used here.
I based them on round bases due to Age of Sigmar, I don't see my self playing Warhammer fantasy at all, due to lack of time to paint  such a big force and so on.
Regarding painting this miniature, I really don't like painting hair. Tats because I'm struggling with it and these Dark Elves Corsairs have a lot of hair flying in the wind so I will have some much needed practice on painting hair. Te rest of the miniature was fun to paint, a lot of different materials with good details, specially the cloak, that part took some time to do.
The basing is painted the same way my forests are, in a dark earth colour scheme with citadel static grass, I also added a winter tuft from Army painter,
The one painting thing I want to cover in this post is the inside of the sea dragon cloak:

1. Screamer Pink
2. Carroburg Crimson

3. Screamer Pink
4. Emperor's Children
4. Emperor's Children 1:1 White Scar

Wednesday, 19 August 2015

Dark Elf Corsair

This old miniature are one of my absolute favourites of all time, I don't really know why but this miniature made me drop my Empire army to pick up Dark elves instead. Unfortunately I got my armies for 40k and Warhammer fantasy stolen and so did many at the club, but I found this miniature online many years later and finally I got it painted. I might even base it on a round base for Age of Sigmar.

Regarding the paint scheme I wanted  a cold pallet with some spots of warm colours, that's why the skin on the severed head is tanned and the leather on the axe is painted in a red brown colour.

1. Sotek Green
2. Temple Guard Blue
3. Coellia Green Shade (only where the cloth is in shadow)
4. Temple Guard Blue 1:1 White Scar
5. Temple Guard Blue 1:3 White Scar (Edges only)

Sea Dragon cloak
1. Incubi Darkness
2. Nuln Oil
3. Thunderhawk Blue
4. Fenrisian Grey

Sunday, 16 August 2015

Bolt Action - Soviet MMG and Medium Mortar teams

Here is two weapon teams for my Soviet Union force, I glued all the miniatures on the base before painting, that wasn't so smart. I had problems reaching some areas on the miniatures, specially on the MMG teama gunner. So some parts that's facing towards the support weapon are less detailed then the rest of the miniatures. Next time I paint a support weapon team I will not glue every thing to the base at once, I will paint things separately and when finished I will glue them in place, sometimes I really feel like a noob at this.
I  wanted the greatcoat to be another colour then the regular uniform and when I looked at Osprey pictures the great coats seemed to be brownish, so that I went with that.


 I paint the uniforms as I have done on previous soviet miniatures, the parts that I have changed the way painted on these miniatures are described below.

1. Doom Bull Brown
2. Strong tone
3, Doom Bull Brown
4. Tuskgor Fur

1. Steele Legion Drab
2. Soft tone
3. Steel Legion Drab 1:1 Screaming Skull

Support weapons
1. Caliban Green
2. Deathworld Forest (Drybrush)
3. Athonian Camoshade
4. Loren Forest

Tuesday, 28 July 2015

Infinity - Painting PanOciania 2

So I got all three Fusiliers from the Operation Icestorm painted, the first one I painted (here) is in background of the picture below and the two newly painted in the foreground. These two latest Fusiliers I painted I took my time with them so they has smoother transitions between the different layers and has a overall better result. I probably will have to repaint the armour on the Fusilier.

In my second go at the Fusiliers I did some changes in the colours that I used and I added black and yellow parts on the armour to break of the all blue result I got on my first Fusilier. In my mind these two colours are unit markings for the Fusiliers, they are the line troopers of the PanOceania so there are allot of them so unit markers isn't a far fetched idea.

Paints (changes in red)

Armour (Blue)
1.  Kantor Blue
2. Teclis Blue
3. Teclis Blue 1:1 Lothern Blue
4. Lothern Blue
5. Lothern Blue 1:1 Ulthuan Grey (Edges)

1. Steel Legion Drab
2. Seraphim Sepia
3. Desert Yellow
4. Karak Stone
5. Karak Stone 1:1 Rakarth Flesh

1. Ulthuan Grey
2. Ulthuan Grey 1:1 White Scar
3.  White Scar

The Fusilier in the back is the first one I painted, I probably will  need to go over his armour so it matches up better with these two newer ones.

Thursday, 23 July 2015

Review: Wargames Factory - Samurai

I have been looking around for other skirmish games and I have found one that looks interesting, Daishō from The ministry of Gentlemanly Warfare. They do not supply the game with miniatures, only the rules, but there is no shortage of 28mm samurai warriors on market.
I went down to my local hobby store and picked up a box of Samurai Warriors, you get 25 samurai's in the box on 5 sprues and one sprue with square 25mm bases.

They have allot of details on them which is great, but they are sculpted very shallow so to speak. Why is that bad? Well if you mess up with priming and get a thick layer on them you will loose the details, same goes with for painting them, but removing paint from a plastic miniatures is easier then removing primer. So dilute your paints when painting these miniatures.

In the box you get the enough options to get some diversity to your miniatures to cover sword (katana and wakizashi)  or spear (yari) equipped samurai's. You get 5 identical sprues (below) with samurai's in the box.

I only have assembled a few of them and they are easy to assemble well enough, even though you don't get any instructions with pictures etc.. There is a text on the side on the box that tells you what you should use and there is a few pictures on some assembled samurai's so you can look at if you feel the need for some guidance.
The bits can be a bit fiddly if your used to 40k or similar miniatures, have you assembled some Warlord plastic miniatures for Bolt Action you will know how to handle this kit. When I had to use some liquid green stuff on some joints, but most of the places I could have fixed when I was glueing them together.

I didn't use the square base that comes with the box, instead I use a 25mm base from Renedra.

To sum up my thoughts, it's a good box/kit of miniatures for what you pay for it. They are not made for skirmish game but for large army games such as Kings of War, so they have static poses due to the square bases and rank system that goes with that kind games. That is the "biggest" limitation for this kit if to be used in skirmish games.
If you want more "character" in your miniatures, get another kit or miniatures, but if you don't mind it, get this box. As a final word I will get the Ashigaru box from Wargames Factory.

Monday, 6 July 2015

Infinity - Painting Nomads

Nomads are up on the painting table, as I stated in the post regarding PanOceania this is my favourite faction, so I did spend some more time painting this miniature. When I did the PanOceania miniature I wasn't doing the best I could and looking at it now I feel that I have to do a better job on the rest of them, perhaps not as much as I did on this Nomad miniature, but better.

To get a good transition between colours do takes a lot of time with a brush and to get the desired effect I'm wet blending the colours to get that smoother transition between the colours(with that I failed on the PanO miniature). The dilution ratio I approximately use is one part paint and two parts water, this is depending on how thick the paint is, sometimes you will have to dilute more and I applied at least 2-3 layers of different colours listed below.
If you have and can use an airbrush it will take you less time and it probably will look better, I don't have an airbrush so I do it the old fashion way with a brush. 

When it comes to painting the skin, it was a experiment, I wanted to try another way to paint skin, a skin that didn't scream Caucasian. So I started with a brown base colour and continued with a yellowish tone in the paints I used. It wasn't a complete success. The layer colours didn't match up with the base paint as good as I hoped, so next time I will change the base colour and go at it again.

On to the base, I did complain about the base top when I did my PanOceania miniature and I wrote that you better use an airbrush to make it look good. I stand by that and that you can make it look good with a brush.
When it comes to the base top (from Custom Meeple), it has more then just two lines on it so that will make it easier to paint, the reason is that I have never found it easy to paint large flat surfaces.
I didn't write anything about the colour choice for the base in the PanO post so I will take it up in this one. I will almost always want the colour on the base to be a contrast to the main colour on the miniature. For an example, the PanO miniature is mainly blue, to contrast it I  went with a red-brown colour. The reason is that red and blue go well together and that blue is a cold colour and the red is warm, also the red is darker so it will make blue stand out more.
You can use two colours (one on the base and one on the miniature) that is both cold or warm the most important thing is that the miniature sticks out from the base, the base is a background and should enhance the miniature not taking over.
As a paragraph to this statement, I want to say that this is how I think when doing Sci-fi  miniatures, when it comes to historical such as Bolt Action I do the bases in another way, looking at my soviets, their bases don't make the miniatures pop, those bases are painted to set the scenery, the bases are painted to represent the Ukraine. If I had chosen to do a Stalingrad themed force the bases they would be grey ruins for an example.

On to the paints and pictures;

1. Mephiston Red
2. Carroburg Crimson
3. Evil Sunz Scarlet
4. Wild Rider Red

1. Abaddon Black
2. Black Grey 1:1 Abaddon Black
3. Black Grey
4. Mechanicus Standard Grey
5. Mechanicus Standard Grey 1:1 Ulthuan Grey
6. Ulthuan Grey
7. Abaddon Black (Glaze)

1. Meredius Blue
2. Arcane Blue
3 Arcane Blue 1:1 Ulthuan Grey

1. XV-88
2 Seraphim Sepia
3. Bestigor Flesh
4. Ungor Flesh
5. Ungor Flesh 1:1 Pallid Wych Flesh

As a closing note, painting these detailed miniatures really makes you finding your own shortcomings, for good and bad. To see that in a positive way, these short comings are the things I need to practice to be a better painter.

Wednesday, 24 June 2015

Infinity - Painting PanOceania

So I finally got started on my Infinity models, the reason why I picked the PanOceania miniatures to do first is because I wanted to practice on them before I started with the Nomads, which is my favourite of these two factions.
My plan for painting my Infinity miniatures is to paint them in the order they appear in the missions, PanO first and then the Nomads.

The main problem was to get a good blue, I rarely paint blue so my pile of paint didn't have what I wanted, so I went to my local shop and picked up some blue colours. The aim was to get something close to what the miniatures have on the Operation Icestorm box. As you can see I didn't really get there, the colour scheme that CB uses looks to have more grey in it, something like Fenris Grey but I like this more colourful blue I got.

I really liked to paint this miniatures, it has loots of details, which I do like to paint. it was a bit different to paint then the usual GW miniatures or Warlord Games miniatures I usually paint.
There is a lot of potential to get a really awesome looking miniature out of these Infinity minis, if you have the time to put in to it.
Regarding the base, I use the base add-ons from Custome Meepel, these a really made to airbrush. Trying to get a good looking base with a brush will take time. I don't have that time or the skill to pull it off. If you use these add-ons use many thin layers and don't have the whole base in one colour, it will look really flat and uninteresting. I will probably redo this one.

Armour (Blue)
1.  Kantor Blue
2. Teclis Blue
3. Teclis Blue 1:1 Lothern Blue
4. Lothern Blue
5. Lothern Blue 1:1 White Scar (Edges)

1. Steel Legion Drab
2. Soft tone
3. Desert Yellow
4. Karak Stone
5. Karak Stone 1:1 Rakarth Flesh

1. Ulthuan Grey
2. Ulthuan Grey 1:1 White Scar
3.  White Scar

Thursday, 28 May 2015

Stone fence terrain

I got the idea for these stone fences when I looked at Warlord Games Ostfront book, in the web store. There is a few pictures of the content of the book and in one of the pictures there is stone wall fences that looked that they were made by real stones (or rather stone pebbles).
The idea is was to create stone walls that parted fields form each other, the stones er e collected mainly from the ones you would find when you worked the fields and they were used to create a wall to separate different fields.

So I went outside and got myself a small bucket of a stone pebbles from outdoors and got to work, the materials I used were simple to get or cheap to buy;

  • Stone pebbles, get them outdoors.
  • White glue, cheap from the store.
  • Cardboard, from a box.

I used one big sheet of cardboard that I  applied the white glue on, the white glue  were applied 1-2 cm wide and roughly 15 cm long, don't use to small amount of glue, you want the pebbles really stick top the cardboard.
After the first layer of glue and stone pebbles had dried I applied white glue again, this time I used a smaller amount of glue, so the glue didn't take over the shape of stones. I used a narrow line  of glue and then widened it carefully with a brush, you don't want the glue to cover the first layer sides.
After the second layer were dried I applied  one to two layers more to get it to a good height, each layer were more narrowed then the layer before it and this is the result.

You can use smaller pebbles or large grain of sand to fill some holes, but be careful not to use too much glue, you don't want to cover the details of the pebbles.


I didn't know how to paint them, grey coloured stones is a bit boring and the pictures in the Ostfront book from Warlord Games showed a type of limestone/sandstone coloured stone fences.
I tried with brown grey combinations with cheap art acrylic paint but they came out more as pinkish stones, not what I wanted. After a while I got annoyed with trying to get a good colour from the craft paints so I used Citadels paint instead, its a lot more expensive but I'm happy with the result.

  • Dark Grey or Dark Brown
  • Karak Stone
  • Screaming Skull
  • White Scar 
  • Army painter Soft tone

1. Go with either dark grey or dark brown.
2. Karak stone, base paint the stone fences with it.
3. Screaming Skull, heavy dry brush layer.
4. Soft tone, shade the whole thing.
5. Screaming Skull 1:1 White Scar, dry brush layer.

I added some vegetation to the stone fences by using Woodland Scenic s Coarse Turf, I just glued  small patches in the cracks between the stones. I also cover the small patches of the base of the fences with sand and painted them with the following;

1. Steel Legion Drab, base coat.
2. Screaming Skull, dry brush layer.

Then I added some tuft to match my soviet army and the ones I used were;

  • Army painter Winter Tuft
  • Citadel Static Grass
  • Citadel Static Glade Grass
  • Woodland Scenic's Coarse Turf
  • Army Painter Meadow Flowers
  • Army Painter Jungle Tuft

This is the result, could even be better with some wash one first layer or perhaps pigment to make them look a bit more dirty. But I'm happy with the result of my experiment, this is a really cheap way to make stone fences if you don't want to buy one of the many plastic kits you can find on the market. I hope this will help/inspire you to make your own terrain.

Sunday, 3 May 2015

Playing with Colours: Craftworld Eldar #1

I got bored painting my orange eldar so I painted up one my reserve guardians that I had laying around. The idea was to paint it "not so colourful", this was to break of my so colourful eldar force.
When I was done I was pleased with the result and thought to my self that I have some more of these "reserve" eldar guardians so why not paint them in different colour schemes, just for fun and practice painting. So when I get bored with whatever I'm painting for the moment, I will paint a miniature to test colour combination and to break of from the batch painting I usually do.


Base: Rakarth Flesh
Shade: Agrax Earthshade
Layer: Rakarth Flesh
Highlight: Palid Wych Flesh

Base: Merchrite Red
Shade: Agrax Earthshade
Layer: Merchrite Red
Highlight 1: Evil Sun Scarlet
Highlight 2: Wild Rider Red

Saturday, 21 March 2015

Used miniatures - Lord of the rings

I won a auction on the internet, the bid was on a box with a unknown number of miniatures, he only thing I knew was that it contained a Balrog which I could clearly see on photos.
So when the package finally arrived I was surprised to find a lot of miniatures and some a oop too, so for what I paid for, it was a bargain. The downside on buying used miniatures is that they most likely are painted, some may be broken and some may be missing parts. In my case I would say that 30% was broken, another 10% are missing at least one part of the miniatures and mostly of them are painted.

So I have a lot to do with these miniatures, first I will have to remove the paint, then I will have to repair those I can and as last step paint them. My plan is to do the fellowship and the Moria goblins plus the two cave trolls first then I guess I will do the Balrog.

Here is what I won.

Tuesday, 17 March 2015

Ugluk and Vrasku, Uruk-hai Captains

"With Lurtz slain by Aragorn at Amon Hen, and the hunters still hot on their heels, it is Ugluk that rises to the fore amongst the Orcs Carrying Merry and Pippin back to Saruman. Vrasku commands the legions of the White Hand Scout Uruk-hai. A cunning and resourceful leader, Vrasku is utterly ruthless and heedless of the lives of his followers."

Now these Uruk Hais is the first ones I ever painted, I looked around on the internet for tips and paint schemes. There is a lot of painters that shares how they paint Uruk's and most paint there skin in a dark brown/read colour and the armour is painted mostly a metal colour.
So this is my way to paint Uruk Hai's skin and armour, which is based on others way to do it.
The only part that I struggled with was the leather parts, I wanted them black at first, but then the whole model would be grey/black except for the skin which would be boring.
So with that in mind and that I want these to have a more muted colour then I usually paint with I started with Dryad Bark as a base colour then I mixed with several lighter browns. So I cant tell you exactly how I did the leather.

When I was done with Ugluk I realized that his hair should be painted in a lighter colour, now in a desperate attempt to rectify my mistake I used vomit brown mixed with a little Steel Legion Drab to highlight his hair.
Another difference between these models is that I washed Ugluk's skin one time more with Nuln Oil before the higlight.

Base: Dryad Bark
Layer: Dryad Bark 1:1 Doombull Brown
Layer: Doombull Brown
Shade: Nuln Oil
Highlight: Doombull brown 1:1 Tuskgor Fur
Highlight: Tuskgor Fur

Base:Ledbealcher 1:1 Abaddon Black
Layer: Leadbelcher
Shade: Nuln Oil
Highlight: Leadbelcher 1:1 Chainmail (edges and streaks only)

Thursday, 12 March 2015

Mirkwood Ranger Captains

Well, I started to get my hands on Lord of the rings and The Hobbit miniatures, I started to collect this range of miniatures mainly for my kids, they love to play the Lego The Hobbit and Lego Lotr game and this is my way to get them in to the hobby.

These Mirkwood Ranger Captains are from the Hobbit range and are really nice models and I will get the Mirkwood Ranger box only for how good the miniatures look. I will get a 500 point Mirkwood force going to begin with.

Regarding the painting I tried, and I mean try to mute down the colours, I usually use bright clear colours when I paint 40K but wit these I want to have a more sober tone. The female captain i went to far and the colours  came out too bright.

Male Captain

Green - Castellan Green > Loren Forest > Straken Green
Leather - Rhinox Hide > Doombull Brown > Doombull Brown 1:1 Tuskgor Fur
Armour Black - Coal Black > Coal Blazk 1:1 Fenrisian Grey (Dry Brush) >   Fenrisian Grey (Dry Brush) > Nuln Oil
Trouser Black - Incubi Darkness > Incubi Darkness 1:1 Thunderhawk Blue > Abaddon Black (Glaze) > Thunderhawk Blue

Female Captain

Green - Castellan Green > Lahmian Medium 1:1 Caliban Green > Loren Forest > Straken Green
Leather - Rhinox Hide > Doombull Brown > Doombull Brown 1:1 Tuskgor Fur > Tuskgor Fur
Armour Black - Coal Black > Coal Blazk 1:1 Fenrisian Grey (Dry Brush) >   Fenrisian Grey (Dry Brush) > Nuln Oil
Trouser Black - Incubi Darkness > Incubi Darkness 1:1 Thunderhawk Blue > Abaddon Black (Glaze) > Thunderhawk Blue

Saturday, 7 March 2015

Dark Eldar Wych Squad

Well, I'm finished for now with this squad, I have had them ion my painting table for a long time. I never seemed to get them done, like my Imperial Knight which is 80% done but I cant bring my self to finish it, so now I have go to the point where I have to stop changing or improving on these guys and just say 'they are done'.

The Armour is painted as I have described in earlier post, the only other thing really that is new is that I have different hair colours on them. I wanted to have more colours but I ran out of steam and just did three plus a another one of the Hekatrix.
The reason for the different hair colours is that I wanted to break away from the total uniform look and add more colours to the squad and in my opinion I think the dark eldar probably would have different hair colours.
If I paint another squad of Wyches they will have different hair colour too so I can mixed them up so there is a myriad of hair colours.

Due to the really pale skin on them I had problems getting good photos were the skin didn't look like crap, enjoy.

Wednesday, 11 February 2015

Bolt Action Soviet Commissar, LT & Medic

I just finished painting these soviet miniatures for my next Bolt Action game, they are more or less speed painted. I just did Base/Wash/Base/Highlight on them, but that is more or less tabletop standard in my eyes.

and yes for you who spotted that my Commissar is missing his head, in  my clam pack there was a German officer head instead of a Commissar head. I'm planing on taking a officer head from the plastic Soviet Infantry box on him instead, there isn't a huge difference between them anyway, but for now he will be headless.

So here is how I did the main colours;

1. Khaki Grey
2. Athonian Camoshade
3. Khaki Grey
4. Khaki Grey 1:1 Ushabti Bone

1. Kantor Blue
2. Nuln Oil
3. Kantor Blue
4. Kantor Blue 1:1 Ushabti Bone

...and a infantry squad.

Sunday, 1 February 2015

The Wych and the Warrior

I have tried to decide on a colour scheme on my Dark Eldar and of the latest try was this which I liked, but green and red is too common. So I wanted to do something else and I have decided that I will remove the red and add purple/pink instead. I did try with pure purple first but it didn't "pop" enough so I added some pink to it brighten the colour up a bit.

Most of the colours you probably can see what I used so I will only go through the Armour, Jumpsuit and purple/pink parts of the miniatures.

Base painting
Primer: Black
Skin: Pallid Wych Flesh
Jumpsuit: Black
Armour: Incubi Darkness
Purple/Pink:  Naggaroth Night


1. Incubi Darkness 1:1 Sotek Green
2. Kabalite Green 1:1 Sotek Green
3. Coellia Green Shade
4. Kabalite Green 1:1:1 Sotek Green/Sybarite Green
5. Sotek Green 1:1 White

After the Base colour I only painted highlights on the jumpsuits.

1. Black Grey (70.862)
2. Fenris Grey


1. Naggaroth Night 1:1 Emperor's Children
2. Xerius Purple 1:1 Emperor's Children
3. Emperor's Children
4. Emperor's Children 1:1 White
5. Druchii Violet (Shade)