Tuesday, 28 July 2015

Infinity - Painting PanOciania 2

So I got all three Fusiliers from the Operation Icestorm painted, the first one I painted (here) is in background of the picture below and the two newly painted in the foreground. These two latest Fusiliers I painted I took my time with them so they has smoother transitions between the different layers and has a overall better result. I probably will have to repaint the armour on the Fusilier.

In my second go at the Fusiliers I did some changes in the colours that I used and I added black and yellow parts on the armour to break of the all blue result I got on my first Fusilier. In my mind these two colours are unit markings for the Fusiliers, they are the line troopers of the PanOceania so there are allot of them so unit markers isn't a far fetched idea.

Paints (changes in red)

Armour (Blue)
1.  Kantor Blue
2. Teclis Blue
3. Teclis Blue 1:1 Lothern Blue
4. Lothern Blue
5. Lothern Blue 1:1 Ulthuan Grey (Edges)

1. Steel Legion Drab
2. Seraphim Sepia
3. Desert Yellow
4. Karak Stone
5. Karak Stone 1:1 Rakarth Flesh

1. Ulthuan Grey
2. Ulthuan Grey 1:1 White Scar
3.  White Scar

The Fusilier in the back is the first one I painted, I probably will  need to go over his armour so it matches up better with these two newer ones.

Thursday, 23 July 2015

Review: Wargames Factory - Samurai

I have been looking around for other skirmish games and I have found one that looks interesting, Daishō from The ministry of Gentlemanly Warfare. They do not supply the game with miniatures, only the rules, but there is no shortage of 28mm samurai warriors on market.
I went down to my local hobby store and picked up a box of Samurai Warriors, you get 25 samurai's in the box on 5 sprues and one sprue with square 25mm bases.

They have allot of details on them which is great, but they are sculpted very shallow so to speak. Why is that bad? Well if you mess up with priming and get a thick layer on them you will loose the details, same goes with for painting them, but removing paint from a plastic miniatures is easier then removing primer. So dilute your paints when painting these miniatures.

In the box you get the enough options to get some diversity to your miniatures to cover sword (katana and wakizashi)  or spear (yari) equipped samurai's. You get 5 identical sprues (below) with samurai's in the box.

I only have assembled a few of them and they are easy to assemble well enough, even though you don't get any instructions with pictures etc.. There is a text on the side on the box that tells you what you should use and there is a few pictures on some assembled samurai's so you can look at if you feel the need for some guidance.
The bits can be a bit fiddly if your used to 40k or similar miniatures, have you assembled some Warlord plastic miniatures for Bolt Action you will know how to handle this kit. When I had to use some liquid green stuff on some joints, but most of the places I could have fixed when I was glueing them together.

I didn't use the square base that comes with the box, instead I use a 25mm base from Renedra.

To sum up my thoughts, it's a good box/kit of miniatures for what you pay for it. They are not made for skirmish game but for large army games such as Kings of War, so they have static poses due to the square bases and rank system that goes with that kind games. That is the "biggest" limitation for this kit if to be used in skirmish games.
If you want more "character" in your miniatures, get another kit or miniatures, but if you don't mind it, get this box. As a final word I will get the Ashigaru box from Wargames Factory.

Monday, 6 July 2015

Infinity - Painting Nomads

Nomads are up on the painting table, as I stated in the post regarding PanOceania this is my favourite faction, so I did spend some more time painting this miniature. When I did the PanOceania miniature I wasn't doing the best I could and looking at it now I feel that I have to do a better job on the rest of them, perhaps not as much as I did on this Nomad miniature, but better.

To get a good transition between colours do takes a lot of time with a brush and to get the desired effect I'm wet blending the colours to get that smoother transition between the colours(with that I failed on the PanO miniature). The dilution ratio I approximately use is one part paint and two parts water, this is depending on how thick the paint is, sometimes you will have to dilute more and I applied at least 2-3 layers of different colours listed below.
If you have and can use an airbrush it will take you less time and it probably will look better, I don't have an airbrush so I do it the old fashion way with a brush. 

When it comes to painting the skin, it was a experiment, I wanted to try another way to paint skin, a skin that didn't scream Caucasian. So I started with a brown base colour and continued with a yellowish tone in the paints I used. It wasn't a complete success. The layer colours didn't match up with the base paint as good as I hoped, so next time I will change the base colour and go at it again.

On to the base, I did complain about the base top when I did my PanOceania miniature and I wrote that you better use an airbrush to make it look good. I stand by that and that you can make it look good with a brush.
When it comes to the base top (from Custom Meeple), it has more then just two lines on it so that will make it easier to paint, the reason is that I have never found it easy to paint large flat surfaces.
I didn't write anything about the colour choice for the base in the PanO post so I will take it up in this one. I will almost always want the colour on the base to be a contrast to the main colour on the miniature. For an example, the PanO miniature is mainly blue, to contrast it I  went with a red-brown colour. The reason is that red and blue go well together and that blue is a cold colour and the red is warm, also the red is darker so it will make blue stand out more.
You can use two colours (one on the base and one on the miniature) that is both cold or warm the most important thing is that the miniature sticks out from the base, the base is a background and should enhance the miniature not taking over.
As a paragraph to this statement, I want to say that this is how I think when doing Sci-fi  miniatures, when it comes to historical such as Bolt Action I do the bases in another way, looking at my soviets, their bases don't make the miniatures pop, those bases are painted to set the scenery, the bases are painted to represent the Ukraine. If I had chosen to do a Stalingrad themed force the bases they would be grey ruins for an example.

On to the paints and pictures;

1. Mephiston Red
2. Carroburg Crimson
3. Evil Sunz Scarlet
4. Wild Rider Red

1. Abaddon Black
2. Black Grey 1:1 Abaddon Black
3. Black Grey
4. Mechanicus Standard Grey
5. Mechanicus Standard Grey 1:1 Ulthuan Grey
6. Ulthuan Grey
7. Abaddon Black (Glaze)

1. Meredius Blue
2. Arcane Blue
3 Arcane Blue 1:1 Ulthuan Grey

1. XV-88
2 Seraphim Sepia
3. Bestigor Flesh
4. Ungor Flesh
5. Ungor Flesh 1:1 Pallid Wych Flesh

As a closing note, painting these detailed miniatures really makes you finding your own shortcomings, for good and bad. To see that in a positive way, these short comings are the things I need to practice to be a better painter.